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Lowering your front forks

to all paps out there who sharing the different ideas for modifications of our MC(T135) .....i'm very glad to hear it from you paps about suggestions about this!!!thanks a lot...safe ride!!!GBU...


Super Veteran
the length of spacer you just add determines how the front shocks be lowered, so no more grinding or filing the stopper of the butterfly.
heres my question..... how come that the shocks become lower if you add spacer inside?
sori but i dont get the logic of this mods. pls help me understand....... thanks.


haha.. got it !! cge bukas cmulan ko imods .. ilan beses ko na din kce try noon pero laging sawi sa lowering procedure.

anyways salamat guys for info..ride safe po sa inyong lahat
im using mio front fork,,nothing to pix just plug n play,,,


just change your fork oil to lighter weight. or decrease the amount of your stock fork oil and set your front suspension sag. this are the types or number of fork oil: 5wt, 10wt, 15wt, 20wt. 5wt is usually used for mx. fork oil change will effect the compression and rebound of your front suspension. no major modification to be done, no filling or grinding, just change your fork oil.


New Member
is th
The blog I posted is for a scooter's front shock/s. For the benefit of our bike's version I took the liberty of taking pics as I progress in lowering my front shocks.

I went to a stainless steel shop nearby and bought a stainless tube size 1/2" in diameter

I got 1 pair 1 and 1/4" and 1 pair 1" in length
Make sure the sides of the spacers are properly smooth sanded to avoid metal chips scratching the damping rod.

I've been using MAXIMA Fork oil. Works great for me even in stock front shocks height

Once the spacers are ready I moved on to the next step/s.

Find a helper.

Next center stand your bike, and get a piece of wood or can that can hold your bike since you will remove your front wheel.

Once everything is prepared now you can remove the shocks. but before that here are the things I had to remove to get to that point.

  • Front fender
  • Chest cowling
  • CDI bracket ( so you have more turning space when screwing the top bolt cap)
  • Fron rotor caliper
  • Front wheel
  • Horns (busina)
After removing those you now..

Unscrew the four bolts on the butterfly and the screw on top. (this was mentioned on earlier posts on this thread)

You can use a screw driver (-) to slightly pry and lift the butterfly and now you can pull down the shocks.

Once you got the forks out you need to disassemble them.

  • Remove the longer spring (fork spring)
  • Drain the fork oil
  • Unscrew the Allen bolt at the bottom
  • Once you unscrew the Allen bolt just take a peek at the hole and you will see the tip of the damping rod or cylinder pump, Simply use a flat screw driver and a hammer and nail it gently until it disengages from the shocks
  • If successful you have already disassembled your Front shock/s

Wipeoff the dirt and oil of your whole fork assembly

Then just slip the spacer between the damping rod and the tapout spring (sub spring) or the smaller spring.
Place it again on the fork tube (inner tube), Slip the fork tube to the shocks (outer tube) bolt the Allen again. Use the long spring and the bolt cap and close them halfway just to have resistance so you can tighten the Allen bolt at the bottom.

Remove the Bolt cap and fork spring again and now pour in your Fork oil.

Be mindful on how much you pour. I had 2-3 tries of dismantling the shocks because I ended up having a hard play. This is a trial and error process. it's better to start with a soft play so that you will just add up fork oil which does not require total removal of the fork and shocks you can simply pour it in the fork tube.

I'd say I used up about 10-15ml of fork oil.

Here's the difference of stock front shocks and the other with 1" spacer.

After that you can return the front shocks already.

When returning the forks to the butterfly you will really need a helper since the tension of the spring is more stronger. It AIN'T EASY pushing the bolt cap by yourself. so you need someone to pull down the shocks and the other to screw the bolt cap. Make sure that you screw first the four bolts that hold the fork tube in to the butterfly.

Then just put back all the things you removed. first return the front wheel and disk brake

hold the front brake and give it a push, gauge if it's to hard or too soft if it's to soft just pour in more fork oil.

Enjoy your lowered T135 ..need not to grind your butterfly.

is this method is applicable if i change my stock outer tube to 7 speed outer tube?


Super Veteran
is th
is this method is applicable if i change my stock outer tube to 7 speed outer tube?
It should apply since the diameter for the inner tube is just the same. although i noticed 7 speed seems to be lower compared to stock shocks...


Super Veteran
what is the recommended schedule of stainless spacer would fit this? what thickness? stainless steel pipes/tubes have different thickness.. Is this schedule 10?
if you put those spacers on that part, the play will be shorter giving a shorter length of the shocks.. so if you lessen the fork oil to make it play like the original play it will definitely hit something inside if there would be a huge bump right? correct me please if i'm wrong. have you tested the shocks with spacers to do a full rebound nad would not have a tik sound?? just like hitting a hammer?


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Hindi ko padin kasi nalolower yung snipey ko unang una Busy tsaka nag dodoubt pa ako thanks po sa reply
kailangan ba igrind yan? o pwede pihitin para mailabas ko yung shocks at para makikil ko yung stoper?
paps just asking on pic that you encircle on top, if I remove that it will not suddenly pop out because of the springs inside the tube? (baka kasi bigla tumalon yong takip at tatalsik yong oil sa muka ko :D)