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Sniper 150 General Thread

Discussion in 'T150 & T135 General Topics' started by CLutch, Nov 10, 2015.

  1. CLutch

    CLutch New Member

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    Hello po, I was searching for threads here and found nothing related to my concern so I will ask this here and hopefully I could get an answer soon. I already have the money(cash) and the Sniper 150 MXi is already available in the 3s Shop and all I need to know now is the Do's and Don'ts on a sniper mot2 and the Break in.
    and also:
    1) Will Yamaha 3s shop allow me to change the oil and oil filter after the first 20km(motoman) without voiding the warranty? I will pay for the oil and oilfilter and the labor if it will be allowed and change the oil and filter again on the next first 500km with the coupon if it's possible or do you guys have any suggestions about how I should break-in my snipee 150?

    2) Anybody have an Idea where I get comprehensive insurance for 97k snipee?
     
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  3. JapSpeed

    JapSpeed Super Veteran

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    3s shop will not do the first service maintenance if your bike's ode is less than the required KMs.. but if kilala mo yng mechanic pwedeng2x.. bigyan mo lng sya ng ganito:coffee:hehe..

    personally i really agree with hard break in.. all my Blocks that i installed to my SMX had been this process.. and now i realized this process is good for race bikes only.. racebikes are usually brand new right? or let say the block that they are using are brand new.. to shorten the process of "break in period" they use this hard break in method..

    this is my plan to my coming SMX 150.. i will follow the regular "break in process" then after that i will do the was was to the max!!!:dance::dance::dance: this is just my thoughts :thumbsup::coffee:
     
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  4. John Jordan

    John Jordan Veteran

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    Go with motoman's "break-in" a lot satisfying as with the break-in method in the owner's manual. Also, to correct you on that 20km bro, actually its 20miles. That's around 50km, if you can DIY on the oil changing and oil filter changing so much the better as you'll get to acquaint yourself with your bike. Just my centavos. Best of luck!:thumbsup:
     
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  5. CLutch

    CLutch New Member

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    I guess doing the hard break-in after the regular break-in process wouldn't do any much effect on the rings after that as what I have read from Motoman's article on break-in. hehe. But I will take this into consideration :) I guess I will do the hard break in but won't change oil after :D
     
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  6. CLutch

    CLutch New Member

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    I called the 3s shop today and they said they will void the warranty if I would be the one who will change the oil and they recommended that if I will be the one changing the oil, I will be paying for the oil and filter and leave them the 500km coupon. :D
     
  7. snipermxmalayaklan

    snipermxmalayaklan Super Veteran

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    Sir, as far as I remember in Motoman, it's not 20 km's but 20 miles which is 32.19 km's. as far as warranty is concerned I befriend the mechanic with extra tip so my MC is surely with warranty . :) if you changed your oil personally and they told you that your warranty will be voided, just simply don't tell them you changed oil for they wont know that if you're really eager for motoman style.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015
  8. John Jordan

    John Jordan Veteran

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    To TS, I guess this should explain your concern. hehehe. Surely the 3s Shop wont find out if you changed your oil after 32km and have it changed again by 3s after 500km.
     
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  9. CLutch

    CLutch New Member

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    But how about the oil filter? in the motoman thread it states that I should replace the oil filter together with the oil :D will they know the difference if I change the oil filter? I hope I'm not asking the wrong questions here, I am a newbie :D
     
  10. snipermxmalayaklan

    snipermxmalayaklan Super Veteran

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    they won't know the difference paps.
     
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  11. John Jordan

    John Jordan Veteran

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    To TS, again this answers your question. Hehehe
     
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  12. Exniper

    Exniper New Member

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    TS...

    Actually you do not need to follow all the things that motoman stated in his article. His article mostly relates to huge engines with a lot or huge cylinders and pistons and delicate components which has very short clearace/space in between them inside the mc engine unlike the asian motocycles which as lower cc.

    All you must remember before getting one are:

    1) Make sure the dealer Offers a lot of freebies, good insurance policies (CPTL, TPL, OD, Comprehensive Insurance, just search it for you to know the meaning), and a lot of coupons.
    2) Make sure the motorcycle you are going to get has not been tested yet or being started in idle just to know if it works. If in that case it will ruin the break-in process like what is stated in motoman's article.
    Things to check before buying out your mc:
    - Check the fairings for damages
    - see if the handle is aligned from the front fork and tires and also the rear tires.
    - check for leaks
    - check the signal lights and break lights and your GAUGE for any broken pixel (without starting the mc and during starting your mc)
    - check for replaced parts (I can attest that most mechanics and personnel would replace parts from a new mc:censored: with substandard or used ones)
    - make sure you get both keys and the ECU Password(for EFI Cash basis)
    3) After buying the mc, you should consider every detail in the mechanic's orientation and ask whatever you want to ask and you should even get his/her number and make sure they put Yamaha mineral oil on your new MC (I'm sorry to tell you but they usually put synthetic so im sorry).
    4) BUY ONLY FROM YAMAHA 3S SHOP DEALERS
    4) Only start the motorcycle if you are going to begin your break in process. Like what motoman said, the first 20miles is the most important so when you get out from the 3s shop, you will begin the break-in process.
    5) When breaking in, make sure you have warmed up your mc for 1min(it would be enough for an FI mc) and DO NOT REV.
    6) After warming up, start slow(while you are still in the 3s shop) and when you get out, you can burst your acceleration.
    7) During the break-in, all you need to do is to:

    (I will not explain to you all of the details since I assume you already did a lot of research)

    (Figure 1)(step 1)

    >burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 2nd
    >burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 3rd
    >burst accel(full throttle) (do not shift to 4th) close throttle to engine break (DO NOT EVER BRAKE)
    >shift down to 2nd (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)
    >shift down to 1st (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)

    (Figure 2)(step 2)
    >burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 2nd
    >burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 3rd
    >burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 4th
    >burst accel(full throttle) then close throttle to engine break and decelerate
    >shift down to 2nd (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)
    >shift down to 1st (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)

    (Figure 3)(step 3)
    >long bursts and quick decelerations and so on

    Please be reminded to rest your mc for 5-10mins after your first 10-15kms.

    What you are trying to achieve is to pair the bore and the piston rings and let the rings stick to the piston with the help of the HEAT generated by accelerating and decelerating(engine breaking). It's just like having sex, the p:censored:s will not let in any air inside the v:censored:a and no leaks. :shag:

    It's not necessary to change the oil since our oil filters today are very much reliable and most of the broken particles would be blown out during the deceleration or engine breaking and if thier are few particles inside the engine, the 500kms(as per 3s shop first 500kms change oil warranty policy) is not too far to run. Just make sure they change it with mineral oil.

    MOST OF ALL.. GET YOUR NEW MOTORCYCLE BLESSED and PADUGUAN to AVOID SPILLING YOURS :) GOD ALWAYS GUIDES US.

    I hope I had been of help to you. Good luck in getting your MC. Pm us if you have problems or queries. Tank you. :dance: Have fun with it!
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2015
  13. ja salarda

    ja salarda New Member

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    engine break?
     
  14. JapSpeed

    JapSpeed Super Veteran

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    Haha d na tuloy yng regular break in process ko. Sarap kasi bumbahin yng sniper 150. Yn tuloy na "hard break in" :dance::dance::dance:
     
  15. ja salarda

    ja salarda New Member

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    panung bomba dre? ginawa mo yung steps?
     
  16. JapSpeed

    JapSpeed Super Veteran

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    Bumba to the max rpm. Basta proper shifting lng. Basta kng less than 100kms importanti yng down shift and wg mg babad at the same rpm. Sundin mo yng sa instructions
     
  17. ja salarda

    ja salarda New Member

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    yung parang nagkakarera ka?
     
  18. JapSpeed

    JapSpeed Super Veteran

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    Basta sundin mo lng yng steps bro. If d ka sure sa steps better d nlng gawin. Pero if gs2 mo tlaga sundin madali lng naman.
     
  19. snipermxmalayaklan

    snipermxmalayaklan Super Veteran

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    "bombahin mo lang"
     
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  20. ja salarda

    ja salarda New Member

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    hindi ko kasi alam kung tama un ginagawa ko... basta maluwag ang daan,binibilisan ko lang...todo sa throttle pero 3rd to 4th gear lang
     
  21. JapSpeed

    JapSpeed Super Veteran

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    mas maganda biritin sa 1st gear to 3rd gear then downshift to 2nd gear down to 1st gear then birit naman. pg binirit wg mg dalawang isip.. bumba talaga para mrong pressure ang mga piston rings sa loob... don't worry my limiter naman yn. sagad mo 10k rpm bawat shift.. basta walang sagabal sa daan biritin mo..

    pg mg donwshift wag pigain ang clutch lever. hayaan mong humiyaw yng makina... pero d basta basta mg downshift baka mg slide yng rear tire mo...
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2015
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